UNDERSTANDING THIS PILGRIMAGE

A St. John Paul II pilgrimage is a journey of prayer to the places where Karol Wojtyła was baptized, lost his family, worked, became a priest and bishop, and is now buried: Wadowice, Kalwaria Zebrzydowska, Kraków and Częstochowa in southern Poland, and his tomb in St. Peter's Basilica in Rome. Its purpose is not to admire a famous pope but to ask his intercession and to follow him to the One he pointed to. He opened his pontificate with the words "Do not be afraid. Open wide the doors for Christ."

What this pilgrimage is: a life followed in order

In Poland the pilgrimage has a natural order because it follows a life. Wadowice is the beginning: the family home, now a museum, and next door the basilica with the font where he was baptized on 20 June 1920. He said there in 1999 that this was where he "was joined to Christ and received into the community of his Church." A short drive away is Kalwaria Zebrzydowska, the hillside sanctuary of Passion and Marian paths that he walked as a boy, as a priest and as archbishop, and where he asked pilgrims to pray for him "during my life and after my death."

Kraków holds his adult life: the Dębniki district where he lived as a student and worker, the archbishop's palace at Franciszkańska 3 where he was ordained on 1 November 1946, and Wawel Cathedral, where he was ordained a bishop in 1958. On the southern edge of the city the Sanctuary of St. John Paul II stands near the Divine Mercy Sanctuary at Łagiewniki, where in 2002 he entrusted the world to Divine Mercy.

Częstochowa belongs because Jasna Góra was where, in his own words, he learned to be "a man of great trust." Auschwitz-Birkenau, which he called "this Golgotha of the modern world," belongs for a different and graver reason.

Rome is the other half. His pontificate began in St. Peter's Square and his body rests inside the basilica, in the Chapel of St. Sebastian. A pilgrim who cannot go to Poland can still make this pilgrimage in Rome, and for those who cannot travel abroad there is a national shrine dedicated to him in Washington, D.C.

Why people are drawn to it

Many pilgrims come because John Paul II was their pope. He reigned from 1978 to 2005 and began the World Youth Days; a whole generation of Catholics first took the faith seriously because of him. For them a visit to Wadowice or to his tomb is close to visiting the grave of a spiritual father.

Others come for what his life shows. He lost his mother at eight, his only brother at twelve and his father at twenty. He worked in a quarry and a chemical plant under Nazi occupation, studied for the priesthood in an underground seminary, and served as a priest and bishop under a Communist government. He was shot in St. Peter's Square on 13 May 1981 and forgave the man who shot him. He grew old and ill in public. People carrying grief, fear, a hard decision about vocation, or the long work of forgiving someone find that his biography speaks to theirs.

And some come for a particular part of his teaching: the dignity of the human person, marriage and the family (Pope Francis called him "the pope of the family"), Divine Mercy, or his entrustment to Mary, summed up in his motto Totus Tuus.

The Catholic foundation: why go to the places of a saint

Catholics do not travel to a saint's home town or tomb to honor a celebrity. The Catechism teaches that the saints "do not cease to intercede with the Father for us" and that "our communion with the saints joins us to Christ." A pilgrimage in the footsteps of a saint is one concrete way of living that communion: you pray where he prayed, you ask him to pray for you, and you let his life question yours. The Church's Directory on Popular Piety is firm that devotion to the saints must never eclipse Jesus Christ, the one Mediator, and should lead back to the liturgy.

John Paul II makes that ordering easy, because his whole teaching is about Christ. The first sentence of his first encyclical reads: "The Redeemer of man, Jesus Christ, is the centre of the universe and of history." Pope Francis canonized him on 27 April 2014, Divine Mercy Sunday, and his memorial is kept on 22 October, the anniversary of the Mass that began his pontificate in 1978.

He is also unusually well documented. Unlike pilgrimages built around ancient saints, where tradition and history have to be carefully separated, most of what a pilgrim sees here is a matter of record: the font of his baptism, the house he was born in, the palace where he was ordained, the marble slab over his tomb.