UNDERSTANDING THIS PILGRIMAGE

An Advent and Christmas pilgrimage is a journey of prayer made in the weeks when the Church waits for the birth of Jesus Christ and then celebrates it. Bold Pilgrim's journey would be made in Advent to Cologne, whose cathedral holds the shrine of the relics venerated since 1164 as those of the Magi, the first pilgrims to the Child, with a day at Aachen and an optional day at the Marian shrine of Kevelaer. In Advent the shrine is closed and the relics are not shown; pilgrims pray before the shrine that holds them. The purpose is the purpose of the season: to set out, as the Magi did, and to arrive at Christmas having looked for Christ.

What this pilgrimage means: the first pilgrims

Advent has two movements. It prepares for Christmas, when the first coming of the Son of God is remembered, and it turns the heart toward his coming again. The Church's norms call it a time of devout and expectant delight, and from 17 December the liturgy is ordered more directly toward the Nativity, with the O Antiphons sung at Evening Prayer.

The Gospel of Matthew tells of magi from the East who followed a star to Bethlehem, offered gold, frankincense and myrrh, and went home by another way. The Catechism sees in them the first-fruits of the nations: the first people from outside Israel to find Christ and adore him. They are the Gospel's first pilgrims, and the Church remembers their coming at the Epiphany of the Lord, on 6 January.

John Paul II gave their words to the young people he called to Cologne in 2005: We have come to worship him. He read their return by another way as an image of conversion. That is the shape of this pilgrimage: to set out, to seek, to adore, and to go home changed.

The Three Kings in Cologne: what is history and what is tradition

What is documented is this. In 1164, after Emperor Frederick Barbarossa had subdued Milan, Archbishop Rainald of Dassel received the bodies venerated there as the Three Kings and brought them to Cologne. Between about 1190 and 1220 the workshop of Nicholas of Verdun and the goldsmiths who followed made for them what the cathedral calls the largest reliquary of the Middle Ages, and the cathedral says the relics were a decisive reason for the new Gothic building begun in 1248.

What is tradition is their identity. The Gospel gives the Magi no number, no names and no crowns; the cathedral's own account says the number three and the title of kings arose around the year 200 and the names later, and it tells the story of how the bodies reached Milan as legend. John Paul II spoke of the relics as venerated in Cologne according to a pious tradition, and the dean of the cathedral said in 2020 that there is no firm proof, only a long tradition.

What Cologne does is honour them. The Archdiocese of Cologne says that the three kings are venerated as saints in the Catholic Church, though its own broadcaster notes that they were never formally canonized, and it keeps the day their relics arrived, 23 July. Benedict XVI prayed before the shrine in 2005 and said that Cologne would not be what it is without the Magi. A pilgrim venerates the relics as a sign pointing to the Child the Magi came to adore.

Advent or Epiphany: when to go

In Advent the cathedral keeps the season's liturgy, and its services page mentions special times for Confession before Christmas. The city's way of cribs opens in late November, and Christmas markets stand beside the cathedral and in the old city; the market at the cathedral closes shortly before Christmas Eve. St. Nicholas falls on 6 December and the Immaculate Conception on 8 December. The shrine is closed, as it is for most of the year. The relics are not shown in Advent: a pilgrim prays before the shrine that holds them and sees its gold, not the relics. You are home for Christmas.

At the Epiphany the cathedral is at its most solemn. On 6 January the plate on the front of the shrine is removed so that the three skulls can be seen behind a grille, and in recent years it has stayed open until the following Sunday; the cathedral announces each year's arrangements. Around that day children dressed as the kings, the star singers, go from door to door to bless homes. The market at the cathedral has closed by then.

This journey is shaped for Advent, because that is when a pilgrim can prepare for Christmas and still keep the feast at home, and because the Magi can be honoured at their shrine in any season. The Epiphany is offered as another way to make it.

The places that serve it

Cologne Cathedral is the centre: a working cathedral that calls itself above all a house of prayer and worship, with Mass and Confession, a chapel for adoration and a place to light a candle before Our Lady. Benedict XVI named Cologne with Jerusalem, Rome and Santiago de Compostela among the most important places of pilgrimage in the Christian West. This journey uses a few of the city's churches: St. Maria im Kapitol and St. Maria in Lyskirchen for the infancy of Christ and the crib, the Minoritenkirche for Bl. John Duns Scotus and Bl. Adolph Kolping, and St. Andreas for St. Albert the Great.

Aachen, to the west, has kept four cloths in its cathedral since the Middle Ages. Two are venerated as the swaddling clothes of Jesus and the dress Mary wore on the night of his birth. The cathedral presents their origin as legend and shows them only every seven years; the next showing is expected in 2028. What a pilgrim finds in Advent is Charlemagne's church of St. Mary, the shrine that holds the cloths, and the Gospel verse they recall. The cloths themselves are not seen.

Kevelaer, to the north, is a Marian shrine on the Lower Rhine, where Mary has been honoured since 1642 as Consoler of the Afflicted. Its published Advent programmes have included Rorate Masses and Confession; the sanctuary publishes each year's arrangements. On this journey it is an optional day.

Christ at the centre

The Magi did not come to Bethlehem for the star. They came for the one it led to, and when they found him they fell down and worshipped him. What bears their name in Cologne, the shrine and the cathedral raised around it, exists to repeat that one act.

The Child they adored is the Lord who died and rose and who gives himself now in the Eucharist. The prayer of Advent is the one to carry home: Come, Lord Jesus.