UNDERSTANDING THIS PILGRIMAGE

A Holy Week pilgrimage is a journey made to keep the Church's most sacred days, from Palm Sunday through the Easter Triduum to Easter Sunday, in a place bound to the Passion and Resurrection of Jesus Christ: Jerusalem above all, Rome, or a city with a long tradition of Passion devotion such as Seville. Its centre is the liturgy itself; the Way of the Cross, the processions and the holy places are gathered around it. An Easter pilgrimage carries the same journey on into the season of the Resurrection.

The Catholic foundation: one celebration over three days

The Catechism calls Easter "not simply one feast among others, but the 'Feast of feasts,' the 'Solemnity of solemnities,'" and says the whole liturgical year takes its light from the Easter Triduum. The Triduum begins with the evening Mass of the Lord's Supper on Holy Thursday and closes with Evening Prayer on Easter Sunday. The U.S. bishops' liturgy office is blunt about its unity: it would not be appropriate to celebrate only part of it. Holy Thursday, Good Friday and the Easter Vigil are one act of worship spread across three days. The Eastern Churches call Holy Week "the Great Week."

That is what a Holy Week pilgrimage is built to protect. At home the three days compete with work, school and Easter preparations. On pilgrimage there is nothing else to do: you are present at the Lord's Supper, you keep watch, you venerate the Cross, you wait through Holy Saturday, and you are there when the Easter fire is lit.

The Church also keeps the liturgy and popular devotion distinct, and a pilgrim should carry that distinction all week. A procession, a Passion play or a walk along the Via Dolorosa is valuable and can move a pilgrim deeply, but the Holy See's Directory on Popular Piety says that no devotional exercise can substitute for the Good Friday liturgy, and that the two should not be merged.

Liturgy first, devotion gathered around it

Holy Week has produced more popular devotion than any other part of the year, and the Church welcomes most of it. The Directory on Popular Piety encourages the visit to the altar of repose on Holy Thursday night as prolonged adoration, asking only that it not be called or dressed as a "sepulchre." It values the Good Friday procession of the dead Christ, the remembrance of Our Lady of Sorrows, the quiet of Holy Saturday, and the Easter-morning custom in which images of the Risen Christ and His Mother are carried to meet each other.

It also sets limits. Passion plays should not become productions staged for visitors, and penitential practices that go as far as self-crucifixion are not to be encouraged. Read in that light, the great Spanish processions make sense: the brotherhoods of Seville are confraternities of penance making a station at their cathedral, which the cathedral's dean describes as entering the mother church to pray. They are not a parade put on for an audience.

For a pilgrim the practical rule is simple. Plan each day around the liturgy you will attend, in a church where you can actually take part. Then add the Way of the Cross, the procession or the holy place. A week arranged the other way round tends to become spectating.

Jerusalem, Rome and the cities of the Passion

Jerusalem is where it happened, and by custom the Latin Church there keeps the week on the ground itself: the palm procession down the Mount of Olives from Bethphage to the Basilica of St. Anne, the Mass of the Lord's Supper at the Holy Sepulchre and a Holy Hour in Gethsemane on Holy Thursday, the Passion celebrated on Calvary, the Way of the Cross along the Via Dolorosa and a funeral procession in the basilica on Good Friday, and an Easter Vigil at the empty tomb. Because the church is shared under the Status Quo, the Latin Vigil there is celebrated on Holy Saturday morning, something the Custody of the Holy Land says cannot be changed without the consent of all the Churches involved.

Rome keeps the week with the Pope and with its own very old memory. For centuries the Bishop of Rome celebrated in turn at the city's station churches, and the old list still names them: St. John Lateran for Palm Sunday, Holy Thursday and Holy Saturday, Santa Croce in Gerusalemme for Good Friday, St. Mary Major for Easter Sunday. Where the Pope celebrates each liturgy is announced year by year; in 2026 the papal liturgies were held at St. Peter's and the Lateran, with the Good Friday Way of the Cross at the Colosseum. Nearby are the Holy Stairs and the Passion relics kept at Santa Croce, which are honoured by long tradition and are not matters of faith.

Seville, and many other Spanish cities, keep the week in the streets, and at shrines such as Lourdes and Fátima the Passion is prayed along outdoor Ways of the Cross at any season. None of these is a lesser choice. They are different ways of standing near the same Cross.

Easter does not end on Sunday

Good Friday is not the destination. The pilgrimage is going toward the empty tomb, and the Church keeps Easter as a season: in Jerusalem the Franciscans go out to Emmaus on Easter Monday, and the Sunday after Easter is Divine Mercy Sunday.

For many pilgrims the Easter season is the wiser choice: the same holy places and the Easter liturgy still being sung, with more room to pray once Easter week itself has passed. Easter Monday is a public holiday in Italy, and Rome can stay busy through the days that follow. Church law also obliges every Catholic who has made First Communion to receive Holy Communion at least once a year, ordinarily during the Easter season (canon 920), which is why Easter has long been a time for coming back to the sacraments. A pilgrimage in these weeks can be a quiet way to do exactly that.