UNDERSTANDING THIS PILGRIMAGE

The Catholic faith came to us through the Apostles, and a pilgrim can still stand where they lived, preached, died and are venerated. An Early Church or Apostles pilgrimage, often described as walking in the footsteps of the Apostles, is a journey to the places tied to the Twelve and the first Christian generations: the tombs of Sts. Peter and Paul in Rome, the catacombs, the Galilee and Jerusalem of the Gospels, and the shrines that venerate the other Apostles, such as Santiago de Compostela. Its purpose is not archaeology for its own sake. The Church calls herself apostolic because she is built on these witnesses, and a pilgrim goes to their graves to pray, to profess the same faith, and to be sent home as they were sent.

What it means: a Church built on witnesses

Every Sunday Catholics profess a Church that is one, holy, catholic and apostolic. The Catechism explains the last word in three ways: the Church was built on the foundation of the Apostles, the witnesses Christ himself chose and sent; she keeps and hands on their teaching; and she continues to be taught and guided by their successors, the bishops in union with the successor of Peter (CCC 857). The role of the Twelve as eyewitnesses of the Resurrection cannot be repeated or passed on. What they handed on can be, and has been (CCC 860-862).

This is why their graves have mattered since the first centuries. Benedict XVI, opening his catecheses on the Apostles in 2006, put it in one sentence: "Through the Apostles, we come to Jesus himself." He called the Twelve the clearest sign that between Christ and his Church there is no opposition. An Apostles pilgrimage takes that sentence literally. You go to the men who knew him, and you find they point away from themselves.

The Church counts the veneration of relics, visits to sanctuaries and pilgrimages among the legitimate expressions of popular piety (CCC 1674). They are devotions, not obligations, and they are meant to extend the Church's liturgical life, not replace it. The centre of a day at an Apostle's tomb is still the Mass, where the faith they died for is celebrated.

What the Church claims about these places, and what she does not

This kind of pilgrimage asks for honesty about evidence, because the places differ. Some rest on history and archaeology, some on ancient and continuous tradition, some on later tradition that historians dispute. A careful pilgrim can hold all three without embarrassment, provided each is called what it is.

Rome is the strongest case. The grave venerated as Peter's lies in a Roman necropolis beneath the high altar of St. Peter's Basilica, and the basilica was built where it is because of that grave. In 1968 Paul VI announced that he judged the identification of St. Peter's relics convincing, and added in the same address that research and debate would not end there. The reliquary of bone fragments he kept is inscribed with deliberate restraint: bones "considered to be those of Blessed Peter the Apostle." At St. Paul Outside the Walls, Benedict XVI reported in 2009 that carbon-14 testing of fragments from the sarcophagus pointed to a person of the first or second century, which he said "would seem to confirm the unanimous and undisputed tradition" that the tomb is Paul's.

Other shrines stand on tradition. Benedict XVI described the link between St. James the Greater and Spain as a later tradition, and the cathedral at Santiago itself says "the tradition narrates" how his body came to Galicia. Leo XIII declared the relics there to be those of St. James in 1884, and historians still debate how the body could have reached Spain. The relics long venerated in Rome as St. James the Less were tested in 2021 and the femur dated to the third or fourth century, which means that bone is not his. St. Thomas is honoured both at Chennai in India and at Ortona in Italy. None of this is hidden by serious Catholic sources, and none of it empties the pilgrimage. Veneration is directed to the Apostle, who is alive in Christ, and prayer at a shrine where Christians have honoured him for a thousand years is real prayer whatever a laboratory later says about a particular bone.

Why someone is drawn to it

Often the pull begins with a question about foundations. A convert wants to see whether the Church he entered is the one in the Acts of the Apostles. A lifelong Catholic realises she has recited "apostolic" for fifty years without thinking about it. A reader of history wants to stand where the first Christians buried their dead. Someone whose faith has thinned wants to know whether the first witnesses really staked their lives on what they said they saw.

The Apostles answer that last question in the only way open to them. Peter, who denied Christ, is buried a short walk from where tradition says he was crucified. Paul, who persecuted the Church, lies outside the walls on the road to Ostia. Thomas doubted, and by ancient tradition carried the Gospel as far as India. These were not impressive men when Christ called them. A pilgrimage among their tombs is a long look at what grace made of them.