UNDERSTANDING THIS PILGRIMAGE

A Church Fathers pilgrimage is a Catholic pilgrimage to the churches, tombs and cities of the early bishops and teachers who handed on the faith of the Apostles, made so that you can pray where they taught and hear for yourself what they taught. Most of it can be made in Italy: Rome holds St. Leo the Great and St. Gregory the Great, Milan holds St. Ambrose and Pavia holds St. Augustine. The pilgrim goes to pray at their tombs and to read them again, because every one of them points to Jesus Christ.

What it means: witnesses of a living Tradition

The Fathers of the Church are the bishops and teachers of the early centuries, from the generation after the Apostles onward, whom the Church reads as witnesses of the faith she received. The Second Vatican Council says that "the words of the holy fathers witness to the presence of this living tradition," and the Catechism lists, among the places where the Church knows the Holy Spirit, "the Tradition, to which the Church Fathers are always timely witnesses."

That is the reason to go and pray where they are buried. The Fathers are not an optional historical interest. They preached the Creed while it was being defined, explained the Scriptures to the newly baptized, and in some cases died for what they taught. St. Ignatius of Antioch, a bishop martyred in Rome in the early second century, is the first writer known to call the Church "catholic." St. Irenaeus learned the faith from St. Polycarp, who had learned it from the Apostle John, and he argued that the true Gospel is the one handed on by bishops in an unbroken line from the Apostles. A pilgrimage to the Fathers is a pilgrimage along that line.

The line leads to a person. St. Ambrose, Pope Benedict XVI recalled, never tired of saying "Omnia Christus est nobis": to us Christ is everything. St. Jerome put it more sharply: ignorance of Scripture is ignorance of Christ. A pilgrimage that stops at the Fathers has missed what they were saying.

Why someone is drawn to it

Some pilgrims come because they have been reading. A convert has worked through St. Ignatius of Antioch or the Confessions and wants to see that these were real men in real cities. A cradle Catholic has heard the Fathers quoted in the Office of Readings or the Catechism and wants to know who they were. A catechist, deacon, seminarian or teacher wants the faith he or she hands on to have faces and places attached.

Others come because of St. Augustine in particular. Pope Leo XIV is an Augustinian who called himself a son of St. Augustine on the night of his election, and many Catholics have started asking where Augustine's places are and whether an ordinary pilgrim can go.

And some come with a harder question: whether the Catholic Church today is the Church of the first centuries. The Fathers do not answer that with a slogan. They answer it with a bishop, an altar, the Scriptures read aloud and the Eucharist celebrated, which is what you still find in the churches built over their graves.

The places: Rome first, then Milan and Pavia

Rome is the natural base. In St. Peter's Basilica the remains of Pope St. Leo the Great and Pope St. Gregory the Great lie beneath their own altars, relics of St. John Chrysostom are kept in the Choir Chapel, and Bernini's bronze Chair of Peter in the apse is carried by statues of four Fathers, two Latin and two Greek. St. Mary Major has claimed the relics of St. Jerome since the Middle Ages, by a tradition that is not certain. San Clemente keeps the relics of Pope St. Clement and St. Ignatius of Antioch above a fourth-century church you can walk down into.

Northern Italy holds the two Fathers most pilgrims ask about. In Milan, the relics of St. Ambrose rest in the crypt of the basilica that bears his name, and the baptistery identified with his baptism of Augustine lies under the cathedral. In Pavia, St. Augustine's relics are venerated in the marble Arca in San Pietro in Ciel d'Oro, a church served by Augustinian friars.

Beyond Italy, St. Jerome's own place is Bethlehem, where he lived and died beside the Grotto of the Nativity, and St. Augustine's is Hippo, today's Annaba in Algeria. Few pilgrims will reach both, and none of them needs to.