UNDERSTANDING THIS PILGRIMAGE

A conversion pilgrimage is a Catholic pilgrimage made for one purpose: to turn your life more fully toward Jesus Christ. It follows the great converts of the Church, such as St. Paul, St. Augustine, St. Francis of Assisi and St. Ignatius of Loyola, to the places where their lives turned, and it gives a central place to prayer, the Mass and the sacrament of Confession. It is for any pilgrim, because the Church teaches that conversion is not a single event for newcomers but the work of a whole Christian life.

What the Church means by conversion

In everyday English, "conversion" usually means changing religion. The Church uses the word more widely. The Greek word in the Gospels is metanoia, a change of heart, which Pope Paul VI described as an "intimate and total change and renewal of the entire man." Jesus' first words in Mark's Gospel are a call to it: "Repent, and believe in the gospel."

The Catechism speaks of two conversions. Baptism, it says, is "the principal place for the first and fundamental conversion." The second is the one that continues afterward, for the whole of life: St. Ambrose called them "the water of Baptism and the tears of repentance." The Catechism's example of the second conversion is St. Peter, who denied Christ three times, wept, and was asked three times, "Do you love me?"

Two points keep this honest. Conversion is first God's work, not a self-improvement project: "God must give man a new heart." And it aims at the heart before it aims at outward acts. A pilgrimage is a way of placing yourself where the grace of conversion is prayed for, preached and offered in the sacraments.

Why pilgrimage and conversion belong together

The Catechism lists "pilgrimages as signs of penance" among the practices that express conversion. The Holy See's 1998 document on pilgrimage goes further: a pilgrimage to a shrine "must be an itinerary of conversion," and conversion is "the most profound element" of every person's pilgrimage through life. It describes the pilgrim as someone who repeats the road of the prodigal son: leaving, coming to himself, and returning to a Father who is already watching for him.

The practical reason is simpler. At home, the habits that need to change are held in place by routine. A pilgrimage removes the routine for a few days and replaces it with a rhythm of prayer, Mass and silence, often at a shrine where confessions are regularly heard. Pope Benedict XVI put it this way in Santiago de Compostela: to go on pilgrimage "really means to step out of ourselves in order to encounter God."

The converts and their places

St. Paul met the risen Christ on the road to Damascus, an event the Latin Church keeps as a feast on 25 January. Most pilgrims meet him at the other end of his life, at his tomb in the Basilica of St. Paul Outside the Walls in Rome.

St. Augustine is the Church's fullest witness to conversion because he wrote it down. The Confessions record a restless search, his mother Monica's years of prayer, the moment in a Milan garden when he took up St. Paul's Letter to the Romans, and his baptism by St. Ambrose at the Easter Vigil of 387. The baptistery identified with that night can be visited beneath Milan's cathedral, and his relics are venerated in Pavia. Benedict XVI, preaching in Pavia, insisted that Augustine's conversion "was not an event of a single moment but, precisely, a journey," one that "did not end at the baptismal font."

St. Francis of Assisi prayed before a crucifix in the ruined chapel of San Damiano and, according to the early Franciscan sources, heard Christ ask him to repair his house. St. Ignatius of Loyola, wounded in battle in 1521, was changed during months in a sickroom in his family's tower house. That room is now the Chapel of the Conversion, and the beam above its altar reads, in translation, "Here Íñigo of Loyola surrendered to God."

None of these stories is the same. One was sudden, one took years, one turned on a crucifix, one began with a book read in boredom. That is the point of visiting more than one of them.